The next 'It' apple might be 300 years old

Honeycrisps get a lot of hype. But have you ever sunk your teeth into a coconutty Roxbury Russet? Or a Champagne-tart Ashmead's Kernel? Snow White's apple may have been crimson and comely, but these days some of the most exciting varieties in American orchards are old, odd and decidedly unpolished. Their names have the ring of Dickensian villains — Esopus Spitzenburg, Cornish Gilliflower, Fearns Pippin, Hubbardston Nonesuch — and their flavors vary from honeyed sweetness to dark clove spice. For history buffs, heirloom apples represent a link to centuries of human lore. For curious cooks, they're worth seeking out during their fleeting seasons for textures, subtle flavors and creative uses that far outmatch the usual options you encounter at the grocery store. At the turn of the 20th century, the U.S. Department of Agriculture cataloged an estimated 14,000 apple varieties grown domestically in the previous 100 years. Nowadays, according to the industry group USApple, just five — Gala, Red Delicious, Honeycrisp, Granny Smith and Fuji — typically account for more than 60% of U.S. production. Buzzy "brand name" apples, such as Cosmic Crisp and Pink Lady, are strictly licensed, patented and trademarked, making them inaccessible to many growers. Heirloom apples, on the other hand, remain open-source — and thanks to the work of a network of fruit detectives and pomologists, many once-forgotten varieties have begun making their way back into fields, markets and the public consciousness. For more than 50 years, pioneers like Tom Burford of Virginia, John Bunker in Maine and, more recently, David Benscoter in Washington state have surveyed old property maps, aerial photos, deserted farms, vintage nursery catalogs, county fair records and more to ferret out and identify antique apples and prevent them from disappearing. James Wargo, founder of Hidden Gem Orchard in Southbury, Connecticut, considers himself the beneficiary of that community's efforts. "Because of the way apple trees are propagated, the connection to history with this fruit isn't just a metaphor; it's actually tangible," he said. "You have to take a twig or bud and graft it onto a rootstock — so, in a real physical way, the trees we're growing today trace back to the originals." Founded in 2017 on a once-abandoned plot in western Connecticut, Hidden Gem opened for its first pick-your-own season in 2023. Among the antique apples currently on offer in its 7-acre orchard and farm stand are the Ashmead's Kernel, a firm, golden 18th-century English variety with an outsize crunch and electric fizzy flavor, and the juicy Ribston Pippin, which does appear in a Charles Dickens work ("The Pickwick Papers") and was reputedly the foundation of one of the author's favorite desserts, a Victorian baked confection of apples, marmalade and cream sherry called Apples a la Princesse. Though many antique apples ace the taste test, getting customers who've been reared on pristine red orbs to ignore their homely looks sometimes takes more convincing. To the uninitiated, naturally mottled skin and russeted textures can be mistaken for blemish or blight, said Erin Robinson, orchard manager of Scott Farm Orchard, which grows more than 130 varieties of heirloom apples outside Brattleboro, Vermont, and ships gift boxes throughout the country. Consider the Knobbed Russet, a rare British heirloom. "My son says it tastes like banana bread," Robinson noted. "But it looks like a shrunken head." SLOW-COOKER APPLESAUCE This silky, sweet-tart applesauce is a class above anything you'll find in the supermarket and an absolute cinch to make, owing to a couple of clever kitchen moves. First, using unpeeled apples as a base not only saves big on prep time but also helps retain fiber and nutrients. It turns the finished sauce a lovely shade of blush as well. Second, enlisting a slow cooker to handle the leisurely simmer makes the process almost entirely hands-off. Using a mix of apples as a base will produce the best flavor and texture: McIntosh, Honeycrisp and Granny Smith are all good options, but if you want to try heirloom apples, dark-skinned varieties like Blue Pearmain and Black Oxford will yield especially striking results. Adding a few spoonfuls of maple syrup helps balance the tannins, but feel free to use less or more according to your taste. A pinch of salt and a sprinkle of lemon juice before the final puree wake everything up. By Sarah Karnasiewicz Yield: 6 cups Total time: 4 hours, 20 minutes (20 minutes prep; 4 hours slow-cooking) Ingredients: 5 pounds mixed varieties of apples (about 14 medium); see Tips 1/4 cup maple syrup, more to taste 1/2 cup water 1 (6-inch piece) cinnamon stick, broken into 2 pieces 1 large lemon, juiced (about 3 1/2 tablespoons), more to taste Salt Preparation: 1. Core the apples and cut them, unpeeled, into thin 1/4- to 1/8-inch-thick slices. (Alternatively, use the slicing disk on a food processor.) Add the slices to a 6-quart (or larger) slow cooker along with the maple syrup, water and cinnamon sticks. Stir once, gently. Cover and cook on high for 3 1/2 to 4 hours (or on low for 6 hours), until the flesh and skin of the apples is completely tender and the mixture has begun to break down and turn saucy. (If you are able to stir the mixture occasionally — say, once an hour — that helps ensure it cooks uniformly. But if you can't, don't worry; it will still be fine.) 2. Turn off the slow cooker and discard the cinnamon sticks. Stir in the lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Using an immersion blender, puree the apple mixture until smooth and velvety. (If you do not have an immersion blender, you can also puree the mixture in batches with a conventional blender. Just let the apple mixture cool down a bit first, and don't overfill the blending pitcher to prevent burns or other accidents.) 3. Once the sauce has cooled to room temperature (see Tips), taste and adjust the seasoning if desired — adding a splash more maple syrup, lemon juice or salt. Serve at room temperature or chilled. The sauce can be packed in an airtight container and stored in the refrigerator for up to five days. Its flavors will deepen with storage and taste even better the second day. Tips: Using a mix of different apples — some mild, some tart, some soft, some firm — is one of the keys to a deeply flavorful and balanced apple sauce. Because this version is made with skin-on fruit, including some red apples also gives the puree its signature dark, blushing hue. To help the sauce cool faster, spread it out on a rimmed baking sheet. This article originally appeared in The New York Times.