How to pick the right mozzarella for every dish

If you've ever wandered into the cheese section with the innocent intent of "just picking up some mozzarella," you know it's not that simple.What was once a single white orb in plastic wrap is now an entire category. Fresh, low-moisture, smoked, buffalo, burrata — mozzarella takes many forms, and picking the right one for your meal needs a little demystification.Fresh mozzarellaFresh mozzarella is one of those ingredients that feels like a little bit of magic in the kitchen — soft, milky and impossibly tender. Unlike aged cheeses, fresh mozzarella is best enjoyed quickly while its delicate flavor and creamy texture are at their peak.You'll usually find it packed in liquid (water or brine), which helps keep it moist and soft. It's quite versatile, equally at home in a pasta salad, tucked into a sandwich, or added to chicken parmigiana. Slice it onto a platter of ripe tomatoes with a drizzle of olive oil and a scatter of basil and you've got a perfect Caprese salad.Fresh mozzarella is sold in a variety of shapes, each with its own best uses. The most familiar are large mozzarella balls, usually available in 8- to 16-ounce sizes. Then there are bocconcini, which are small fresh mozzarella balls, available in several sizes. These might be labeled ovaline ("egg-size" in Italian), ciliegine (meaning "little cherries") and teeny, tiny perline ("pearl-size").These mini mozzarella balls can be tossed into salads, skewered on toothpicks with cherry tomatoes and basil for a quick appetizer, or used in casseroles.Treccia is braided mozzarella — a cool centerpiece for an Italian cheese platter.You might also see fresh mozzarella sold in a log shape, sometimes pre-sliced; this type is usually sold wrapped in plastic rather than packed in liquid.Fresh mozzarella has a high water content, which means it can release water into baked dishes as it cooks. Blot the slices with paper towels before using them in cooking if you want less moisture. Eat fresh mozzarella within a few days of opening; it's not here for the long haul.Low-moisture mozzarellaLow-moisture mozzarella is the sturdy workhorse of mozzarellas. It's usually sold either in firm blocks or shredded. It melts beautifully, browns in the oven, and plays well with other ingredients and toppings, which is why it's the star of most American-style pizzas and lasagnas. Its flavor is a little saltier and more concentrated than fresh mozzarella, and it has a denser texture. The low moisture means it won't release as much water as fresh mozzarella when melted.Unopened, low-moisture mozzarella can last for weeks in the refrigerator. Once opened, wrap leftovers well in plastic and use within a week.BurrataBurrata is mozzarella with a secret. On the outside: a wobbly exterior of fresh mozzarella. Inside: a decadent mix of cream and stracciatella, which is essentially the curd from the mozzarella-making process mixed with cream. Cut it open and it spills its luscious interior onto your plate. I think of it as the cheese version of molten chocolate cake.Cut burrata is delightful draped over just-baked pizzas, paired with grilled peaches, served with prosciutto, served atop a salad, or drizzled with a bit of balsamic glaze and served with bruschetta.Eat burrata within two days of purchasing it for best flavor and texture.Buffalo mozzarella (Mozzarella di Bufala)Made from the milk of water buffalo, this cheese is creamier, tangier and richer than cow's milk mozzarella. It has a higher fat content and is more expensive than other types of mozzarella.Buffalo mozzarella can be used in the same ways as fresh mozzarella or burrata, and is best eaten uncooked. It is sold packed in liquid, and needs to be eaten quickly, preferably the day of purchase.If you see this type of cheese labeled Mozzarella di Bufala de Campana DOP on the label, that means it's the real deal from Italy, with a protected designation of origin that says it was made in a specific area of the country, using traditional methods.Smoked mozzarella (Scamorza Affumicata)Smoked mozzarella brings a gentle, woody depth to dishes. It's great thinly sliced into a sandwich, cubed and added to grain salads or layered into baked pastas. Try combining it with unsmoked mozzarella so the flavor stays subtle.Wrapped in plastic, smoked mozzarella will keep for up to two weeks in the fridge.Which to choose?If you want stretch and melt, plus a longer shelf life, low-moisture mozzarella is your cheese.For elegance and freshness, look for burrata or buffalo mozzarella.Fresh mozzarella is good with everything, but remember that because of its higher moisture content, it can release liquid into your dish as it melts.Smoked mozzarella is going to impart a more distinct flavor (think barbecue).But if you really want to go deep, treat yourself to a mozzarella tasting. Buy a few different types, set them out with olive oil, salt, crusty bread and maybe some ripe tomatoes. There may be no better way to learn about the many facets of one of the world's best and most versatile cheeses.Katie Workman writes regularly about food for The Associated Press. She has written two cookbooks focused on family-friendly cooking, "Dinner Solved!" and "The Mom 100 Cookbook." She blogs at https://themom100.com/. She can be reached at Katie@themom100.com.